(9/26) Fall weather hit us fast! It seemed like one day it was hot and the next we were wanting to turn on our heat! In our area, September 19 was our first frost of the season. Hustling to cover plants and picking the remaining crops that would be affected by frost made for a busy evening! Does that mean the season is over? No way. There’s plenty to do to prepare for a healthy garden next year.

Here is a list of things on my to-do list. Maybe some of these things you will want to do as well.

1. Do a soil test. Generally, testing the soil for pH and nutrient value is good to do about every three years. My three years are up, so I have purchased a soil test kit at the extension office. Soil testing is an easy thing to do. After purchasing the kit, dig samples of soil throughout the garden beds and mix the soil in a bucket. Take one cup of soil and put it in the bag that is provided in the kit. Package it according to the instructions and fill out the paperwork. Enclosed in this kit is a multi-page form with different colored pages. It looks more daunting then it really is. We gardeners would use the last page of the packet (specific to the Penn State soil test kit), which is specific to gardens, not field crops, and follow the instructions. Include this paperwork with the soil sample in the bag provided and mail it. You should get results within two weeks. When the results of the soil test come back, add the appropriate lime or sulfur to address any pH issues as well as any needed nutrients.
    
2. Add compost. Compost improves soil structure and promotes drainage and aeration to our clay soils. Other benefits to adding compost is it reduces soil compaction, a common problem on new-build sites or areas that have had heavy equipment running over it. It is always a good idea to mix it into the soil to keep those nutrients there and reduce the amount that may erode or run off.
    
3. Weed thoroughly. Getting rid of any weeds, especially those with seeds, will reduce the amount problems next spring. This goes for ornamental gardens, like perennial gardens or shrub and tree borders and foundation plantings, as well as vegetable and fruit gardens.
    
4. In a vegetable garden, be sure to pull any vegetable plants and discard. This will reduce insect and disease pressure for next year that may have been a problem this year. Disease spores and insects can overwinter on dead plant tissue, thus quickly infecting next year’s crop.
    
5. Cut down any of the foliage from perennial vegetables, like asparagus, and discard. Again, we are trying to reduce overwintering insects that may have caused problems with the perennial vegetables.
    
6. In contrast, in the perennial garden, leave dead flower stems and seed heads for beneficial insects that may live in the hollow stems, and for a food source for the overwintering birds. Perennials like Rudbeckia (Black-eyed Susan), Echinacaea (coneflower), and Heliopsis (perennial sunflower) provide a great source of seeds for the winter birds.
    
7. Plant shrubs, trees, and perennials. If expanding a bed, replacing plants, or creating a completely new ornamental garden, October is a great time to plant a new space. Follow all the proper planting rules: don’t plant too deep – the level the plant is in the pot should be the same level in the hole, water it well after planting and continue to water if there is not enough rainfall.
    
8. Mulch. Especially newly planted trees, shrubs and perennials will benefit from a fall mulch. This will help to keep the soil temperature more even, thus reducing the amount of freezing and thawing that will happen without mulch. Freezing and thawing negatively affects newly planted plants because the soil will push the soil ball up and tear any roots that may have started to grow into the existing soil. It will potentially expose roots as well when heaving.
    
9. Rake leaves that are on the turfgrass into the planting beds or vegetable garden. This is a free source of mulch, and as it breaks down, will add that organic matter to the soil with all the benefits we discussed earlier. I have been known to gather bags of leaves from neighborhoods to add to my compost or to use as mulch for my gardens.
    
10. Plant bulbs. Fall is the time to plant spring blooming bulbs like tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths. Follow instructions when planting as each type of bulb will require a different planting depth. The bigger the bulb, the deeper it needs to be planted.
     
11. When selecting bulbs at a garden center, whether in pre-packaged bags or loose, select firm bulbs that do not have holes in them. Avoid a package that may have even one mushy bulb, as the rot can affect the other bulbs in the package.
     
12. Dig up any tender bulbs or tubers, like dahlias, gladiolas, and cannas. Cut off any green growth and store in a paper bag in a cool, dry location that does not freeze.
     
13. If growing hybrid tea, grandiflora, floribunda, climbing or David Austin roses, rake away any dead leaves, sticks or stems from around the base of the plants. This will help to reduce disease and insect infestation for next year. If it is a grafted rose, mulch around the graft union to protect it through the cold winter temperatures.
     
14. Have a water garden? Be sure to prepare it as well for the winter. Any tender plants that you wish to keep for next year must be lifted and overwintered in a shallow pool of water in a cool location that doesn’t freeze. Remove any pumps and store in a dry location like a basement or garage.
     
15. If you have your tropical plants in a protected area outside, get it indoors. Freezing temperatures will kill tropical plants.
     
16. Take notes. Fall is a great time to begin a garden journal. Keep track of what went right this past garden season; make drawings of changes you would like to make for next year. Note any new plants you tried and how they did through the summer. This will remind you in the spring where they are so you can easily determine how they managed through the winter as well. The older I get, the more important notes become. It helps me in determining the direction of the garden for the following year, and it’s fun to look back on notes from years ago to see how the garden has changed. Notes can include pictures of the garden to help remind you what you did and what went right.
     
17. Force bulbs. Consider planting some tulips, daffodils or hyacinths in containers for forcing in late winter. Bulbs need a cooling period, so if you are purchasing bulbs that have not been pre-cooled, get them planted in containers early this month and cool them in a refrigerator for about 12 – 14 weeks. They will be ready to put in a sunny window in late February, early March for a bit of spring color indoors.

I find October one of the best times to garden. The weather is great, and it feels good to get outside after a hot summer to do a clean-up from the gardening season. Fall gardening gives me energy that I lost to the heat in July and August and gets me excited for the next season. It helps me to focus on ideas for the following year and I look forward to winter planning. Hopefully it will do the same for you!

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